Showing posts with label unmentionables. Show all posts
Showing posts with label unmentionables. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 22

A Midsummer Night's Dream

Momma was busy sewing for my Big Sister and her cousins last week (matching Peeps dresses!) but she finally remembered Me.

Knowing I wanted to visit Felicity in the 18th Century, Momma made a steampunk version of a 1770s Sacque Back Gown and Caraco Jacket, by Thimbles and Acorns:

The Sacque-Back Gown, as it was commonly known in England and the American Colonies, originated in France as the robe à la française as an undress fashion. Undress meant that they were informal articles of clothing that were presentable enough to wear inside one’s home while entertaining, but not something one would wear in public. It’s most notable feature was the box pleats which fell loose from the shoulder to the hem. At its most informal, this gown was unfitted in both the front and back and called a contouche, or robe battante. The style was not limited to gowns, but also carried over into shortened jacket forms that were called caracos or pet en l’air. The jackets were originally knee length, but shortened to just above the hips as the century progressed. Toward the middle of the 18th century, the Sacque-Back had emerged as one of the most fashionable gowns, and by the 1770s, it was second only to court dress in its formality. As these gowns gained popularity, the artist Antoine Watteau captured their elegance in many of his paintings which later led to them being referred to as Watteau Gowns.

Momma knew immediately what to make when she spotted the black-and-white version of this Midnight Pastoral Skeleton Toile. Toile, or "Toile de Jouy," is a type of fabric with a white or off-white background with a repeated single-color pattern (usually black, dark red, or blue) depicting a pastoral scene such as a couple having a picnic or an arrangement of flowers.

Momma completed My Look with her newly designed Summer Corset. Her childhood spent at the Gulf of Mexico collecting fossilized teeth convinnced her teeth and bones were black. Hence my black "Addie's Rib" summer corset.



A version of this should be available in Momma's Etsy shop within a week.

Monday, April 21

She Died (of Embarrassment) with Her Boots On

© 2014 Greta Huls and Greta Garb-oh!
I have never been so Mortified in my entire life: Past, Present, or Future!

(Now I know how King David felt.)

Momma saw a photograph a few weeks ago from the Victoria & Albert Museum of a Lady's Summer Corset.

Genius has burned since then and Today she created her prototype.

Little did I know she was going to photograph Me in It and Publish the Photograph.

I am Certain this is in Violation of the Mann Act.


Wednesday, April 9

Birthday suit

Greta Garb-oh!
Shh, I now know Queen Victoria's secret.

Under her austere widow's weeds and resting on top of her birthday suit, lurked a lively Lolo Lobster Tail Bustle!

(Yes, Momma is having way too much fun making these!)

Momma has three of these lively Lolo Lobster Tail Bustles in her Etsy shop, but hopes to add more soon.

Speaking of birthday suits, today is My birthday!

Happy birthday to Me and my doppelgänger, Addy Walker.

To celebrate, today you can receive 10 percent off in Momma's Etsy shop. Just use code BIRTHDAY2014.

But hurry, this offer expires April 10th!

Happy birthday to me, happy birthday to me....


Tuesday, February 25

Hustle and bustle

I am rocking my new Steampunk Star Trek outfit, so I was thrilled to see Thimbles and Acorns has made a bustle to go under it.

I laughed when I read her comment when she posted a photo on Facebook yesterday:


Yes, as a foundation garment, this bustle pattern should have been finished before the bustle dress... better late than never. Hoping to have this pattern out later this week as a supplement to the "Unmentionables" pattern.
 
I have loved Shari Fuller's Thimbles and Acorns designs and patterns ever since she started in 2011. I thoroughly approve of her love of history and its fashions.

I also like her description of how the bustle evolved in Victorian fashion in her 1870s Bustle Dress:

Fashion is where expression meets practicality and lures it into the realm of the extreme. Though fashion trends have a tendency to push the limits, practicality always manages to bring them back into balance… at least for a time. Full skirts were the hallmark of the early Victorian era and by the 1860s they had expanded to as wide as six feet in diameter.

However, as railroads began forging paths around the world, women began to travel more and more. Full skirts and crinolines made for poor traveling companions and the boundary for this fashion trend had been reached. Still, it would be a gallant exit.

The 1870s saw a great boom in the textile industry. Hand looms were replaced by more efficient steam driven power looms which resulted in a larger supply of cloth and fancy trims at greatly reduced prices.

The great cage crinolines were shed and the surplus fabric from the full skirts was draped in elaborately decorated layers and pulled toward the back in large bustles that were reminiscent of those worn a century earlier. The fashionable silhouette had become smaller and more mobile, but what was lost in size was more than made up for with the elaborate trimming which would become the hallmark of the later Victorian Era. 

Since Momma is sewing again, maybe I can persuade her to make the bustle with one of the Unmentionables fabrics?

(Yes, it tickles my funny bone to make Unmentionables with Unmentionables.)


Sunday, February 23

Just dessous

MHD Designs
Now that Momma is back in seamstress mode, she is spending a lot of time looking at patterns and fabrics while letting her imagination run wild.

Her latest brainstorm?

The Unmentionables.

As you might recall, "unmentionables" was a Victorian euphemism for undergarments that weren't to be seen, let alone mentioned.

Elle a osé montrer ses dessous en plein air.
(She dared show her undies out in the open.)

Momma's vision includes MHD Designs 1850s Dessous pattern using all three of the Unmentionables by Peggy Jo Ackley fabrics by Robert Kaufman.


Can't you just picture this 1850s chemise, petticoat, pantaloons, and corset ensemble in these hilarious cotton novelty print fabrics? 

I shall be the envy of all.



Wednesday, March 27

You can't catch me

The next item I had to examine at American Girl Place - Los Angeles was my Caroline's Skiff.

Papa built this beautiful wooden skiff at the family's shipyard—Caroline loves to go sailing with him on Lake Ontario. Papa even named the boat "Miss Caroline" after her—and painted it right on the side! True to her era, it features:
  • Two seats to fit a pair of dolls, plus a mast with a canvas sail
  • A pair of wooden oars Caroline can row with

I was pleased to see Caroline had thoughtfully placed her Travel Basket in the skiff - complete with gingerbread.

When Caroline sets off on her journey to find Papa, she packs everything she'll need for the trip. Your girl can re-create the moment today with this set, including:
  • Five faux gingerbread cakes and two pretend apples
  • A cloth napkin
  • A special gift from Caroline to Papa—a map of Lake Ontario that hides a secret message!
  • A woven basket to hold it all

Yum!

All I need to do is get rid of her. It says the skiff holds two dolls, but not dolls with full Unmentionables! Besides, I want that gingerbread for myself.

 

Friday, January 18

Going commando

I have a fashion emergency.

I am going commando!

I received my Steampunk Soldier Skirt Set yesterday and promptly got into uniform - adding my own little touches, of course.

My shell necklace is perfect with this military look, as is the helmet Momma found for me last year.

And I had to wear my mitts because what self-respecting soldier wants to get her hands dirty?

But this look does not go well with my longer Unmentionables!

Help! I need short black bloomers ASAP!


Tuesday, October 23

Accessory after the fact

I was asked today what are my "must have" accessories.

Hmm, so many choices....

Well, my Unusually Stout Parasol, of course! I never leave home without it. Even if you don't see it in my photos, it is somewhere close by.

A tiny top hat since a lady never leaves the house without her hair covered. Besides, it looks fabulous! (I also use a headband and snood to keep my hair out of my face.)

My tinted glasses (or goggles) since they give me an inscrutable look.

My chatelaine - a chain belt with a padlock. The padlock keeps it safe upon my person while reminding me that NO ONE will EVER put ME in chains again. On it I have:

  • Aether Pistol - in case my parasol fails me - which it never has.
  • Flask (for medicinal purposes)
  • Candle stubs
  • Notebook and pencil
  • Compass
  • Scissors
  • First-aid kit
  • A coil of stout cord
  • Magnifying glass
  • Telescope

Boots - they protect my lower legs while making a grand sound while I stomp around. They help deliver sharp blows to villains, too.

Bling - It might not be sparkly (the enemy can spot sparkly a mile away) but I love to wear flowers, necklaces (especially my shell necklace), and lace mitts.

Unmentionables - I blush to mention them but you never know when corset stays might come in handy for picking a lock or filing bars. The same goes for my hoop skirt or crinoline.

Monday, July 23

Hoorah for the bra

While I definitely prefer a corset, there is much to be said for the humble bra.

The brassiere has long been thought to be a relatively modern invention, but in 2008 archaeologists working at a castle in Austria discovered evidence of modern-style bras made from linen.

The pictured bra, found in the Lengberg Castle, looks similar to the modern longline brassiere with the cups made from two pieces of linen sewn with fabric extending down to the bottom of the torso with a row of six eyelets for fastening with a lace or string.

The brassiere also has two shoulder straps and is decorated with lace between the cleavage. Using radiocarbon dating, the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology, estimates the brassiere was from sometime between end of the 14th to the second half of the 15th century.

From the 16th century onwards, the undergarments of wealthier women in the Western world were dominated by the corset. In the latter part of the 19th century, clothing designers began experimenting with various alternatives to the corset.

In 1910 at age 19, Mary Phelps Jacob invented the first modern brassiere to receive a patent and gain wide acceptance.

With metal shortages, World War II encouraged the end of the corset. By the time the war ended, most fashion-conscious women in Europe and North America were wearing brassieres. From there the brassiere was adopted by women in Asia, Africa, and Latin America.

But not me.


Sunday, May 20

Sew fine


It's good to be me.

Especially when so many talented seamstresses are sewing for me.

First of all, Cher at Sew Fun Doll Clothes heard my plea and created this stunning coat to fit my Pleasant body.

And now Mama Lisa at Darling Dolly created more Black Unmentionables for me!

I can't wait to get them, but first I have to help my Big Sister celebrate her 9th birthday today.

Whee!!!

Tuesday, January 31

Love me (Vert) Tendre

used with permission of M.H.D. Designs
Ma chère amie Cécile is one lucky girl! Check out this gorgeous creation by seamstress artisté, Magalie Houle Dawson of M.H.D. Designs:

  • 1850's inspired Dress in a cotton linen blend jacquard and embroidered loose weave organza. The lined bodice has rows of small organza ruffles at the sleeves, peplum, princess line seam, and neck opening. It is decorated with free motion embroidered "greens" and beads on the sleeve tops and bodice. It is also decorated with an organza bow with a beaded center at the waist. Closes in back with a row of fancy buttons and loops.

  • The lined Skirt is made of eight alternating panels. Four have three rows of loose weave embroidered organza ruffles, and four with free motion embroidered greenery decorated with hundreds of seed beads. Closes in back with a button and loop.

  • The lined Bonnet is sewn with the same cotton linen blend jacquard and loose weave embroidered organza. It has rows of organza ruffles on the outside and is decorated with free motion embroidery and bead work. The inside has three rows of pleated jacquard ruffles. closes with a bow on the side. 

  • Matching Hair Ties


used with permission of M.H.D. Designs
However, what I am drooling over are the Unmentionables: 

  • The lined Corset is made with the same cotton linen blend jacquard and has some pleated ruffles at the center front top and along the hem. It is decorated with free motion embroidery and beaded all over. Closes in back with laces and loops.

  • The Under Dress is made to represent the Chemise and the Petticoat. Sewn in embroidered cotton and decorated with yards of Venice Lace. Closes in back with a row of Mother Of Pearl buttons and loops.

  • The Pantaloons are in embroidered cotton. They have five growth tucks and are decorated with Venice Lace at the ruffled cuffs. 

 I wonder how much Unmentionables cost?

 Black, of course.

Monday, November 14

Around the world in 72 days

My hero.

On Nov. 14, 1889 pioneering female journalist Nellie Bly (aka Elizabeth Cochrane) began a successful attempt to travel around the world in less than 80 days.

She only took with her the dress she was wearing, an overcoat, several changes of unmentionables, and a small bag carrying her toiletries. She carried most of her money in a chamois bag tied around her neck.

While on her trip she met Jules Verne, author of Around the World in Eighty Days which was first published in 1873.

(When Verne asked Bly why she wasn't going to Bombay, India as Phileas Fogg had, she said, "Because I am anxious to save time, not a young widow.") 

Bly completed the trip in 72 days.

I'll bet she asked for directions.

Wednesday, November 2

Victoria's secret no more


Why do I think Queen Victoria would not be amused?

One might even say she'd get her knickers in a twist?

A pair of silk bloomers that belonged to HRH sold at auction yesterday, Nov. 1 for $14,950 to an anonymous bidder - not me!

The knickers (which have a split seam for, um, convenience) are embroidered with a crown and the initials VR for Victoria Regina.

The framed bloomers were allegedly kept in a bathroom cupboard (so as not to embarrass Prince Charles when he visited) at Old Battersea House, the London home of U.S. publishing clan the Forbes family.

I can't help but wonder what my unmentionables would sell for.

Any takers?


Saturday, October 1

I do my little turn on the catwalk



Today was the Big Day for the American Girl Fashion Show AZ and I am exhausted.


As previously mentioned, I was NOT selected as an "official" model, but Momma and I had our hands full anyway with my Big Sister and her two cousins, as well as Felicity, Kirsten and Nellie.

But first I must say that Big Sister's godsister did a fantastic job modeling the Everyday Play Outfit for Girls. Well done!

During the intermission I hopped up on the catwalk to show the others how to properly model.

Felicity developed stage fright and kept swooning, requiring a helping hand.

Kirsten did well but kept standing too close to Felicity who had a bad habit of collapsing into her arms - and taking them both down in the process.

Nellie had a real knack for it as well as a definite sense of style, but I shall have to talk firmly to her since I have discovered she was not wearing her unmentionables! 

(Hey, wait a minute. I just realized All Three Dolls have been archived! I read Banned Books and hang out with Archived Dolls. What does that say about me?) 

I'll have more in a day or two but I need to help Momma with the chores before bed. Let's just say I discovered ma chère amie Cécile's Deep Dark Secret ... and have photos to prove it!
I'm a model you know what I mean
And I do my little turn on the catwalk
Yeah on the catwalk on the catwalk yeah
I do my little turn on the catwalk


Right Said Fred

Thursday, September 29

The Banned Adventures of Captain Unmentionables!

I decided to go for ridiculous ("Riddikulus!") today.

I stand with Captain Underpants Unmentionables!
Have you read The Adventures of Captain Underpants by Dav Pilkey? You should. It's a hoot.

I first read it because my Big Sister was reading it in her third grade class. It's a series of eight (so far) books about two fourth graders, George Beard and Harold Hutchins, and the superhero they accidentally create by hypnotizing their principal, Mr. Benny Krupp.

The Captain Underpants books were reported by the American Library Association to be the 13th most frequently challenged books between 2000-2009. However, the series won a Disney Adventures Kids' Choice Award in 2007.

According to the ALA, Captain Underpants was banned in some schools for insensitivity and being unsuited to age group, as well as encouraging children to disobey authority.

Honestly, do these people who are banning books even talk to kids anymore? Unsuitable? What do they want? Union suits?

(P.S. I have to put in a plug for one of my favorite books by Pilkey, The Paperboy. Thankfully it doesn't seem to be banned anywhere and I adore the peaceful nature of it.) 


Wednesday, July 20

To boldly go where no women have gone before

Three of my favorite women are being celebrated in The Episcopal Church today, and I learned about a fourth. Gosh darn, that Episcopal Church is smart.

Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Amelia Bloomer, Sojourner Truth, Harriet Ross Tubman:
Four American Pioneers of Black Rights and Women's Rights
 

The Episcopal Church has added to its Calendar four American women who were pioneers in the struggle for black emancipation and for women's votes. The date chosen for commemorating them is the anniversary of the Women's Rights Convention held in Seneca Falls, N.Y., July 19-20, 1848.

Sojourner Truth (Nov. 26, 1883) 
 
Sojourner Truth, originally known as Isabella, was born a slave in New York in about 1798. In 1826 she escaped with the aid of Quaker Abolitionists, and became a street-corner evangelist and the founder of a shelter for homeless women. When she was traveling, and someone asked her name, she said "Sojourner," meaning that she was a citizen of heaven, and a wanderer on earth. She then gave her surname as "Truth," on the grounds that God was her Father, and His name was Truth. She spoke at numerous church gatherings, both black and white, quoting the Bible extensively from memory, and speaking against slavery and for an improved legal status for women. The speech for which she is best known is called, "Ain't I a Woman?" It was delivered in response to a male speaker who had been arguing that the refusal of votes for women was grounded in a wish to shelter women from the harsh realities of political life. She replied, with great effect, that she was a woman, and that society had not sheltered her. She became known as "the Miriam of the Latter Exodus."

Harriet Ross Tubman (March 10, 1913)

Harriet Ross was born in 1820 in Maryland. She was deeply impressed by the Bible narrative of God's deliverance of the Israelites out of slavery in Egypt, and it became the basis of her belief that it was God's will to deliver slaves in America out of their bondage, and that it was her duty to help accomplish this. In 1844, she escaped to Canada, but returned to help others escape. Working with other Abolitionists, chiefly white Quakers, she made at least 19 excursions into Maryland in the 1850s, leading more than 300 slaves to freedom. During the Civil War she joined the Northern Army as a cook and a nurse and a spy, and on one occasion led a raid that freed more than 750 slaves. After the war, she worked to shelter orphans and elderly poor persons, and to advance the status of women and blacks. She became known as "the Moses of her People."

Elizabeth Cady Stanton (Oct. 26, 1902)

Mrs. Stanton was born in 1815 and reared in the Presbyterian Church. She found the Calvinist doctrine of predestination dismaying, and rebelled against it. She denounced the clergy of her day for not upholding women's rights, but as she traveled giving speeches on the subject, she found no lack of pulpits available to her. She undertook to write what she called a Women's Bible. It never got beyond a series of notes on selected Biblical passages. For example, she quotes the passage in Genesis where we are told that Noah's Ark had only one window, and remarks that if a woman had been consulted, the Ark would have been better designed.

Amelia Jenks Bloomer (Dec. 30, 1894)

Amelia Jenks was born in New York in 1818, reared as a Presbyterian, and as a young woman became an activist for the anti-slavery, anti-alcohol, and women's votes movements. One of her concerns has made her name a part of the language. In her day, women's fashions encouraged tightly laced waists, involving severe health problems. (The fashions were denounced in 1728 by William Law--see April 9.) The fashion also called for skirts trailing the ground, an arrangement that made it difficult to keep the skirts reasonably clean, especially since the streets were full of horses. Mrs. Bloomer designed a women's costume featuring what are known as Turkish pants, or harem pants, loose baggy trousers gathered into tight bands at the ankles and waist. Over these she wore a mid-calf-length skirt. It seems a thoroughly modest garb, but it excited indignation and ridicule. (At least well into the 1940s, women's underpants, and women's baggy outer pants worn for athletics, were known as "bloomers.")

Mrs. Bloomer and her husband eventually settled in Council Bluffs, Iowa, where she worked to promote churches, schools, libraries, and progressive and reform movements. On one occasion she said:

"The same Power that brought the slave out of bondage will, in His own good time and way, bring about the emancipation of women, and make her the equal in power and dominion that she was in the beginning." 

O God, whose Spirit guideth us into all truth and maketh us free: Strengthen and sustain us as thou didst thy servants Elizabeth, Amelia, Sojourner, and Harriet. Give us vision and courage to stand against oppression and injustice and all that worketh against the glorious liberty to which thou callest all thy children; through Jesus Christ our Savior, who liveth and reigneth with thee and the Holy Spirit, one God, for ever and ever. Amen

Thursday, June 16

Oh, you beautiful doll!

Being a Time Traveler can be a Challenge but has its Rewards, too.

A Challenge? Remembering what Year it is, what's been Invented (or not), and what Tense to use when Speaking.

Rewards? Knowledge!

And this time a really Great Doll.

When Momma and I Ran Away from Slavery I had to leave my doll behind. So when I spotted this Little Darling in 1934 I knew she had to be mine.

Thankfully, I was able to Smuggle her back to 1864 since she's Homemade with materials available in 1864.

How could I Resist her?! My own little Steampunk Aeronaut Doll complete with Goggles!

I named her Amelia after Amelias Bloomer, Earhart and Peabody.

Momma thinks she's a Boy doll since she's wearing (gasp!) Pants, Jacket, Cap, Goggles, Boots, and Gloves. (Momma doesn't acknowledge Rational Dress yet.)

I've been Humming this Song since I got her:
Oh! you beautiful doll,
You great big beautiful doll!
Let me put my arms about you,
I could never live without you. 
Yes, I know it's a Song from 1911. (See what I Mean about the Challenges of being a Time Traveller?)

But the author of the song, Seymour Brown, was Born in Philadelphia in 1885, so maybe he'll Hear me someday and Then write it!


Sunday, May 15

Way down in Egypt land

I sincerely apologize to my faithful readers for not writing anything this past week, but I got a bit adventurous with the time travel machine. I promise that I shall write about 1864 Philadelphia soon!

In the meantime, after spending much time in future libraries I became acquainted with the memoirs of the famous female Egyptologist, Amelia Peabody Emerson. Since her journals began in 1884 I decided a quick trip to Egypt was in order so I could meet this remarkable lady.

What a woman! A proponent of rational dress, she gave her stamp of approval to my ensemble and I got many ideas from her to adapt for my own growing wardrobe.

Mrs. Emerson usually carries a parasol, which she uses a weapon - including a sword-parasol! Her other famous accessory is her belt which contains a pistol and knife, canteen, bottle of brandy, candle and matches in a waterproof box, notebook and pencil, needle and thread, compass, scissors, first-aid kit and a coil of stout cord (useful for tying up captured enemies).

Momma's making me a stout parasol and while she won't let me carry a pistol (or brandy!), I think I shall try to assemble my own belt which I think would be useful working for the Underground....

Tuesday, May 3

Meet Steampunk Addie

What can I say about myself? I was born a slave in North Carolina but Momma and I ran away after Poppa and my brother were sold. We went to Philadelphia where we could be free.

Once there I became involved in the Underground....

At least that's MY story.


Momma says I'm Pleasant Company and she found me somewhere called eBay. She wanted to fix my "weak" eyes. Ha! If she only knew what I could see with these eyes. But that's another story.


She says that once she saw me she knew I was destined for great things so she started to assemble a great wardrobe. (It's a good thing she can sew!) But we've also collected things from all over.

For my hair, she used hose clamps and ribbon roses.

Being steampunk, I had to have a corset. First she borrowed (
eww!) one from a girl named Felicity, then got me my own in black. A red one is coming!

Momma then took an old tartan dress apart and attached the skirt to a sash and paired it with a nifty green jacket.

Finally, I got a shell necklace, a timepiece, binoculars, some major boots, a couple of hats (one of which she trimmed with a scrap of the tartan dress) and some tinted glasses for my "weak" eyes.

What do you think?

Oh, and my hero?

Abraham Lincoln of course!